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03 Jul

Posted at 06:00h in Education, Elbow, Shoulder, Wrist/hand

Most climbers know better than to just jump on their project cold. However, a lack of knowledge and guidance may lead novice climbers to miss out on a proper rock climbing injury prevention warm-up! A thorough warm-up increases blood flow, muscle flexibility, and body control. In this article, youโ€™ll gain access to the best rock climbing injury prevention warm-up from the climbing doctor himself and further understand how to prevent rock climbing injury!

02 Dec

Posted at 11:26h in Wrist/hand
Wrist and hand pain can be debilitating since we rely on our hands for an endless amount of everyday tasks, and even more so with the use of smartphones. Studies have shown that smartphone usage with poor mechanics and joint position can significantly increase the incidence rate of carpal tunnel (3). Another study showed 50% of the participants had a positive test for a thumb pathology called De Quervainโ€™s tenosynovitis from using their cellphones (4). These pathologies are due to wear-and-tear associated with overloading the tissues around the wrists and hands. Luckily, we can take measures to [P]Rehab these pathologies. ย This article will show you exercises for your wrist and hand pain!

25 Aug

Posted at 12:00h in Wrist/hand
So you fell on your hand and it swelled up like a balloon. You find out you broke your wrist, experienced a wrist fracture, a FOOSH injury - you name it - it sucks no matter what. Next thing you know you're in a cast for 4-6 weeks. Time goes by, you see the doctor and he says the bone is healed, you're good to go! You get the cast removed, but you realize your wrist and hand look shriveled up and tiny compared to the other side. Even worse, it hurts to move it, your hand feels weak, you can't even put weight through it, now what?! In this article, we will detail exactly what a wrist fracture is and some exercises to jump-start your rehab when you get your cast off.

26 Jun

Posted at 06:44h in Elbow, Shoulder, Wrist/hand

Rock climbing is a sport that has been gaining popularity over the last few years. The diverse range of movement, mobility, and strength the sport requires makes it appealing to everyone from the weekend warrior to the most serious and dedicated athlete. This fast-growing allure has helped catapult climbing into the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo. The three disciplines that will be included in the upcoming Olympics are sport, bouldering, and speed. Each discipline has its own unique demands varying in power, agility, strength, and endurance naturally inducing risk for both traumatic and overuse injury. In this article, I will highlight the most common injuries seen in rock climbing and demonstrate rock climbing prehab exercises based on research and biomechanics to prevent these injuries.